Hurricane Season Roof Prep: Inspection Checklist and Repair vs. Replace

Storm season tests a roof hardest at the edges, the flashing, and the nailing. Here is what to check before June, how to decide between repair and replacement, and what a reroof proposal should show.

Why the roof comes first

In high wind, the roof is the first thing to fail, and most failures start at the edges, the flashing, or the nailing. The Florida Division of Emergency Management warns that standard 15-pound felt "will blow off pretty quickly in 110 mph winds." Checking these weak points before June costs far less than repairing water damage in September.

Inspection checklist

From the ground (no ladder needed):

  • Look for missing, creased, or lifted shingles, especially along the eaves, rakes, and ridge.
  • Check the flashing where the roof meets walls, chimneys, and vent pipes, and at valleys.
  • Look at the ridge and gable vents. Older vents are often not rated for high wind, according to the Florida Division of Emergency Management.
  • Check that drip edge is in place at the eaves and rakes, where it protects the roof edge.

From the attic (only if you can do it safely, walking on joists with a flashlight):

  • Look for dark staining, soft spots, or delamination on the roof deck (plywood or OSB).
  • Check the nailing. Wood panel sheathing is often under-nailed, and staples do not hold it well. Both the Florida Division of Emergency Management and IBHS say every sheet should be checked, not just a sample.
  • Look for rot or warping. Damaged sections should be replaced with material of the same kind and thickness.

From your paperwork:

  • Find the shingle wind rating on the wrapper or the manufacturer's documentation. The Florida Building Code requires shingles rated for the design wind speed in your area.
  • If you don't have a wind mitigation inspection, consider getting one. The Florida OIR-B1-1802 form documents the roof covering, roof deck attachment, roof-to-wall attachment, roof shape, secondary water resistance, and opening protection. It can support insurance premium credits.

Source note: The wind mitigation details come from a Simpson Strong-Tie blog post about the Florida form, which is a company source. The form itself is published by the Florida Office of Insurance Regulation. Ask your insurer which version it accepts.

Repair or replace?

Several points from the guidance help you decide. The state guidance does not give a roof-age cutoff, so this article does not offer one.

  • Damaged deck sections are replaced with similar material, and the nailing on the surrounding sheets should be checked as well (Florida Division of Emergency Management).
  • Rot, delamination, or warping in the deck needs repair before new shingles go on (IBHS).
  • A second layer of shingles is generally allowed by code, but IBHS strongly recommends removing the old shingles first in hurricane areas, because wind-rated shingles are tested over a flat deck.
  • Old roof vents that are not wind-rated are part of the job when you reroof (Florida Division of Emergency Management).

In practice, the deck condition, the nailing, and whether the existing roof can be brought up to current wind standards usually decide the question. Get two written proposals that address those items directly.

What a reroof proposal should show

  • Deck nailing, with the nail type and spacing stated. Florida requires roof sheathing to be fastened to current standards before replacement shingles are applied (Florida Division of Emergency Management).
  • The underlayment or secondary water barrier, and the drip edge and flashing details.
  • The vents, and whether they are wind-rated.
  • The shingle wind rating, and the permit number.

Before you sign, confirm the permit with your local building department, and don't make final payment until the nailing has been confirmed, as the Florida Division of Emergency Management advises.

Going further: IBHS publishes a FORTIFIED re-roofing standard with specific requirements, such as asphalt shingles rated ASTM D3161 Class F or D7158 Class H and a secondary water barrier. It is optional, but you can ask your roofer whether they build to it.

Get an independent check

A second set of eyes on a roof proposal is worth the cost. Luxona reviews contractor proposals for homeowners and accepts no referral fees from contractors.

This guide is general information for homeowners, not engineering, insurance, or legal advice. Requirements change, so confirm the current code and permit requirements with your local building department, and ask your insurer which wind mitigation form it accepts.

Sources

This guide is based on the following sources. Check the originals and your local building department before you start.